In this Challenge, students learn about the religious traditions of those living around Mount Everest, in particular the Puja Ceremony and the Tibetan Buddhist Monastery of Rongbuk, which was once the largest monastic centre in the region. For the Buddhist, Rongbuk is a sacred threshold to Mt. Everest and is set against one of the most dramatic views in the world. The Rongbuk Monastery was founded in 1902 in an area of meditation huts that had been in use by nuns and hermits for over 400 years.
Central to the Buddhist religion and forming an integral part of any Nepalese or Tibetan expedition is the ‘Puja Ceremony’, during which the Sherpas pay homage to the mountain deity. The ceremony is the starting point for all Everest expeditions. A local Llama (not to be confused with the animal!) travels from the Rongbuk monastery to conduct the ceremony, reading from a book of sacred prayers while sitting in front of a stone altar covered with offerings of cookies, chocolate bars, popcorn, rice and beer. During this ceremony all climbers and equipment are blessed before beginning the ascent of the mountain. Marking the end of the formal ceremony, ‘tsampa’ (a roasted barley flour) is thrown into the air and rubbed on the faces of fellow team-mates and everyone is given a silk scarf as a symbol of being blessed.
Fieldwork on behalf of students of Ridgetown District High School, Sevenoaks School and Future Hope School:
I knew something was up when Sonam, a quiet and humble Sherpa had an unmistakable glint of mischief in his eyes. The tiny Llama, dressed in a burgundy "Helly Hansen" branded jacket over a wine coloured 'robe' with grease stains along the hems began to chant louder in what appeared to be the climax of the puja as his yellowed fingers followed the Cyrillic liturgy on the prayer book in front of his knees. He sat cross legged in front of the stone "stupa" (a sort of stone alter) which was covered from top to bottom in offerings flour, cakes, precious oils, cut up Bounty bars, Mars bars, Snickers bars… as well as an assortment of beverages including Everest’s finest whiskey as a sacrifice to Chomolunga.
The Llama’s intonation increased to an even higher, louder decibel as he threw his arms in the air releasing handfuls of tsampa flour as clouds of yellow dust high into the sky. The Sherpas, fully prepared for the move, eagerly followed his lead. An arc of grey 'dust' flew through the air and for one brief moment seemed suspended in time - a halo of flour superimposed over the omnipresent plume of spindrift coming off Everest’s peak.
The Sherpas laughed at our surprise as the flour fell back down to earth and enveloped us in a giant cloud of dust-flour. It took about one milli-second for us to follow the Sherpas’ lead as we too thrust our handfuls of flour into the air - or rather, tactfully launched the handfuls of flour at a nearest possible victim. Screams of adrenaline could be heard around the camp as we chased each other around the stupa with the ultimate aim of covering the potential victim with the 'flour wipe' of good luck and good fortune.
There were about 45 of us who participated - the entire expedition team from all ranks and all walks of life - who participated in the puja. The ceremony lasted about 1.5 hours in total and ended formally with the flour throwing and informally with an afternoon of gorging ourselves on chocolate, beer and shots of whiskey as the snow began to fall. It was an extremely enjoyable and fun-filled yet richly symbolic morning. The end of the puja ceremony symbolised that we were officially allowed to begin our ascent of Everest and that the appropriate prayers, blessings and sacrifices had been made.
The whole expedition now seems even more 'real'. The 1.5 metre stone monument stands as a prime focal point in the middle of our 'tent city' giving the skyline a truly authentic look as 5-streams of prayer flags in the colors of red, green white, blue and yellow radiate from its core to various points in the Camp.
Before the Llama left to join the Sherpas for a last 'hurrah' and some of Everest finest brew in the Sherpa tent, we each received an individual blessing from the Llama, bending humbly on our knees as he placed a blessed silk scarf around our necks as well as a thin piece of red cord to be worn throughout the duration of the expedition. These symbols serve to protect us and lead us to a safe return after our individual summit attempts.
It felt "humbling" to be a part of something which is so clearly an integral part of the Sherpa tradition and Sherpa beliefs. There is a certain indescribable 'power' surrounding Everest that certainly puts into context the significance of such a ceremony. As I look out at the panorama from my tent - the stupa with its realms of multi-colored prayer flags flapping in the breeze against the clear blue sky and in the shadow of 'The Mother Goddess' herself, I can not help but feel part of her spell, her magic, her power.
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