Packing for Everest...

Over the course of past expeditions I’ve learned to pack ‘lite’…. Generally this equates to 1 x ‘stuffed to the max’ 65 litre pack complete with equipment duct-taped to the shoulder straps and bottles training from the frame… I look more like bulky yak trying to navigate Heathrow Airport check in lines than a fashion-conscious traveler trying to schmooze my way into business class. There are times when fashion comes second to function – and packing for Everest is a prime example of one of those cases.

Packing for Everest presents an interesting predicament – I finished packing last night. In a state of panic at the sight of the mountain of bags in my front room, wrote to JET Airways groveling for

'Non-essential?' debatable

(a) an upgrade AND / OR (b) a *tiny bit* of excess baggage allowance above and beyond the permitted 35kgs.  I have about 45 kilos… of essentials… (if you don’t count the April edition of Vogue, entire Top Gun script (long story), and RAF flying suit (another long story).

When I look at the ‘snapshot’ of the kit-list below, I can’t help but admire (yet again!) early mountaineering pioneers such as George Leigh-Mallory and stand in awe of their achievements wearing wool socks, gaberdine jackets and leather boots..!!

What I’m trying to highlight through the list compiled below that Everest isn’t just about going up and down a mountain. It’s the culmination of years of planning, testing new equipment, getting to know your equipment, and the 'i' word... investment....


Down suit
One of the most important pieces of equipment is my bright yellow ‘marshmallow-man’ down suit which weighs about 4 pounds (but will add about 40pounds to every photo) and provides excellent protection from cold. It’s like wearing a giant sleeping bag with arms and legs with zippers in all the right places. I've sewn in two internal pockets to keep batteries and drinks warm. I’ll start wearing my down suit from late April during our 3-day acclimatization on the North Col and then again during our summit bid in late May when I will even be sleeping in it (and in a sleeping bag!) from about 8300m.

Down jacket
My 'new best friend' and it wears like a big warm hug... My down jacket is extremely lite-weight and compresses into a ball about the size of a fist which will then double as a pillow for a comfy nights sleep.

‘Arcteryx’ Gore-tex jacket
Very girly, bright pink but handy and versatile as ever. Made by Arcteryx (my favourite Canadian mountaineering brand). For protection from the wind the on the journey between Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp and snow / wind protection while jugging up the North Col. Last year it definitely made it into my ‘essentials’ list and is certainly one of my most valued pieces of kit. Waterproof, breathable, windproof… and super stylish.

Gore-tex trousers (pants to the non-Brits!!)

Acclimatisation haute-couture

Until I'm wearing the down suit, I'll be wearing my Patagonia (aka Pata-gucci) gore-tex fleece lined climbing trousers. I love them and they're one of the best investments I've ever made and they've never let me down. By the end of the expedition they'll be able to walk their own way off the mountain... I’m pretty sure that I ended up wearing them 24-7 last year.

Fleece jacket & trousers & thermal base layers
For warmth at Basecamp, worn layered and under my down suit. I have two Patagonia fleece jackets so that I can alternate depending upon what is smells the best / is most fashionable/ what camp I'll be spending the night at...  I will also be sporting various merino-wool under-layers ranging in thickness in a wide variety of colors...(primarily pink). Needless to say, none will clash with my boots and heaven forbid, they clash with my socks...!!  This is Everest after all! Merino wool is the ideal textile for mountaineering for its fast-drying qualities and that is that it doesn’t smell even after 2 months of continuous wear (!!!). Maybe this should be a ‘smell challenge’ to pass on to the students?

Hiking boots
For acclimatisation hikes into and around Basecamp I'll use my regular hiking boots. Am sporting a baby-blue pair of Scarpa Mantas that put Elvis' 'Blue Suede Shoes' into context.

Crocs
VOGUE READERS LOOK AWAY!!! * fashion faux-pas shudder * . For using around Base Camp and in and around Kathmandu - most probably will be achieving that ever so stylish look of Crocs with socks. In spite of their unstylish stereotype, they are fantastic for the mountain as they're super lightweight and durable.

Andrew kitted out on the North Col in 2010

Socks
I will primarily be wearing normal ‘trekking’ socks but I will also have a couple of pairs of super-thick socks for using very high up worn in combination with liner socks to help with warmth and comfort and keep the moisture away from the foot.

Chemical hand and foot warmers
I have plenty of these which warm when they are opened from their packaging and stick onto your hands and feet.

Fleece and cashmere hats
For warmth in tent, while walking, hide bad-hair days, etc. Thanks to Chucs for keeping me up to date with the latest in mountain fashion!

Neck warmers / Buffs
Better than scarves because they don't come off - keep your ears warm too and are every girls' latest mountain-wear fashion accessory... come in a variety of colors... Will be my secret weapon in preventing my ribs from breaking this year!!

Balaclavas
For use up high as protection 'against the elements' (and to wear when robbing other peoples tents).

Sonam Sherpa sporting the shades

Ski goggles - Category 4 (eg. the darkest lenses you can get).
For the ultimate ‘cool at altitude’ look when sunglasses simply won’t cut it. They are worn when conditions are both bright and cold as they provide warmth and protect the eyes from the very harsh UV which can cause snow-blindness and can also prevent your retinas from freezing.

Sun glasses
When its a bit warmer, I'll be wearing these to protect from UV and just look, well, cool and positively trendy, pretty much ALL of the time.... Tempted to bring my Ray Ban Aviators for the Top Gun scenes… (although they’re not particularly practical when climbing!!)

Sun hat
I underestimated how critical a sun hat is last year and found that I wore one about 90% of the time. During acclimatisation and while going up the North Col, its likely to be warm with harsh UV coming down from the sun and being reflected off of the snow. Many thanks to Chucs Dive and Mountain shop for kindly providing me with an ultra-stylish sun hat!

Fleece gloves
Around camp and on lower parts of the trek I'll generally be wearing fleece gloves

Keith on the North Col in 2010

Inner gloves
I'll be wearing inner gloves underneath my down mitts when climbing high

Down mitts
I have big thick Black Diamond and also 'RAB' down mitts which I'll wear while climbing above 7000m.

Climbing harness
My harness is a Black Diamond Alpine Bod that can be put on while standing up after my boots and crampons are already on. The leg loops are adjustable to take into account my thick down suit.

Ice axe
I'll primarily be using it like a walking stick for balance and to rest on when pausing between steps at altitude (holding on where the blade meets the handle).

Carabiners & leashes
For clipping into fixed ropes, and attaching ropes in general.

Figure 8
For abseiling down steep sections such as the infamous 2nd Step at 8650m.

Jumar

Jumar

A rope ascending device. A jumar uses a pivoting cam which locks against the rope, allowing the device to move up but not down the rope. This will be critical when climbing fixed ropes, as I will move jumar up the fixed line with each step. It will not only provide a safety belay that prevents me from falling, but also allowing me to lean back against the fixed rope to rest.

Head lamp
For reading and climbing at night, a strong head torch with a lithium battery will be used.

Oxygen Mask; Tanks
At above 7500m  I'll be using supplemental oxygen at varying rates. Will be using supplemental oxygen for the summit push.

Hiking packs
I'll be using normal hiking packs on the acclimatisation treks into base camp, and further up the mountain. On summit day, the oxygen tanks go into my pack.

Tents
Tents like these will be used above base camp. At base camp they're slightly bigger, less robust versions

Stove
Above base camp, we'll be using a stove to cook our dinner and importantly, to melt snow for water.

Trekking poles
Handy for trekking and walking in snow (in conjunction with ice axe)

Sleeping Bags
(1) RAB Summit 1100 down sleeping bag - heavy and super warm. I'll use my RAB bag for camps higher up and will likely have to wear with my down suit at high camp..
(2) North Face down sleeping bag - medium-warmth. This one will be used at Base Camp up to ABC. Goes to about -30C.

Therma-rest
These provide the most comfortable night's sleep when camping - but can be a bit cold so will probably only be used at lower camps. I have 'decorated' my thermarest with a hand-drawn checkerboard for some high-drama games when stuck in my tent. Stones will serve as the checkers.I'll also be using a foam mat which is not as comfortable as my thermarest but is much warmer for high camps.

Pee-bottles

Sporting a Chinese military jacket

If its very cold or we're camped on a steep site, the idea is not to leave your tent at night! I've convinced myself that the manufacturers of pee-bottles / devices were mountaineers with wild imaginations (or brains starved of oxygen). Female adaptations designed to facilitate the use of a pee bottle are aptly named, 'She-wee' or 'Urinelle' or the ever popular and super hardcore 'She-wee Extreme' (comes with a bright pink carrying case just in case you didn't think that a she-wee was feminine enough...)

Nalegene bottles and thermoses
For holding boiled water up high and doubling as a hot water bottles. Nalgene bottles also double as pee-bottles... just ensure that you label them properly as this will avoid embarassing and uncomfortable situations. I've covered mine in duct-tape for emergency situations.

Altitude watch / altimeter
Displays altitude and air pressure. My altimeter also allows me to monitor my heart rate and has lots of additional gadgets to play with / figure when I'm really bored...

Cameras
I'll be taking a digital camera, video camera as well as a disposable camera.

i-Pod 
Can't be without some tunes! Very important for Basecamp Air Guitar competitions...

Maximuscle Range of Energy Gels and Protein Powders

First aid kit
Blister tape, paracetamol, asprin, Ibuprofin (aches and pains), Imodium, anti-biotics, bandages, Iodine sunscreen, lipbalm, diamox, dex, cyproflaxen

Spare batteries
For everything - cameras, MP3 players, torches, sat phone etc

Books
I'll be spending a fair bit of time at base camp so these will come in handy...! I have a nice collection of travel / adventure / mystery to keep me quiet for a few days at least.

Maximuscle Energy Gels and Bars
They proved (literally) to be a life-saver last year. Maximuscle offer a fantastic range of energy and recovery gels (their Viper range is fantastic and the gels don't freeze!) Viper gels help combat dehydration, boost energy and promote enhanced stamina.

Kate Middleton and Prince William Royal wedding mania memorabilia ...
100% pure English porcelain.... and 100% class.

Thank you Kitty for the most essential mountain item of 2011.