Acclimatising in the Khumbu Valley

Acclimatisation walk to 5100m in front of Ama Dablam

Following a typical breakfast of porridge, cereal and bottomless cups of tea and we set out under a cloudless blue sky... As usual we are graced with absolutely breathtaking views through the Khumbu Valley in the shadow of Ama Dablam, Everest, Lhotse and Makalu off in the distance. The narow path cut into the side of the hill and heavy yak traffic means we often walk in a long and winding 'trekking train'; the sounds of the white-water of the Duda Kosi river far below broken only by the 'clink' of our trekking poles chipping against the rock underfoot and the occasional porter carrying small battery powered radios playing what I can only assume is the Nepali Top 40.

The smells along the trail enliven and overwhelm the senses. You can almost 'feel' the arrival of spring with each step. The valley is filled with smell of sweet blossoms, richy fertilised earth turned over by local farmers planting potatoes in their fields, the intoxicating smell of crushed juniper underfoot, the sweet milky smell of the porters carrying their heavy loads, and the occasional pile of steamy yak dung planted unceremoniously in the middle of the trail. Whilst it is a rather unique combination of scents and not altogether unpleasant, I don't suspect that 'Eau de Nepal' will be bottled and sold in a French perfumerie any time soon.

Given we have 2 months to acclimatise before 'the big job', we are on a rather comfortable acclimatisation schedule. You are definitely left breathless over certain steeper sections of trail as your calves start to burn and your lungs work to process the oxygen through the body. There is a certain degree of comfort in arriving at a Guest House exhausted, hungry and out of breath, taking a short rest to let your body 'catch up' and then continue on your way feeling stronger. I'm fascinated by the process of acclimatisation and marvel at the way the body responds to the rarified air. We are truly dynamic machines.

While the path is undulating and steep in certain sections, it is by no means impossible and for anyone considering a trek in the Himalayas where they can enjoy relative 'creature comforts' (beds, culture and hospitality of the local people, fantastic food, breath taking views...) I would highly recommend it. There are literally people of all ages, shapes and sizes along the trail making the experience their own.

Stunning views on the trail

Lost enroute on an acclimatisation walk to 4800m

Toilet (above); How Shower (below). Logic (questionable).

Mani Stones, Prayer Wheels and Mantras

A challenging part of the walk has been to try and stay on the left side of the 'mani-walls', 'stupas' and prayer wheels which are found along auspicious sections of the trail and at the entrance to the numerous villages through which we pass. Mani walls are generally about 4-feet in height and can range from 4 feet - 30 feet in length and are made up of flat stones carved with the mantra (prayer) "Om Mani Padme Hum" which means (roughly) 'Generosity, Ethics, Patience, Diligence, Renunciation, Wisdom' Given the problems I had last year on Everest with my ribs I refuse to take any chances with charma and have been giving each stupa, mani wall, and prayer wheel its due respect!

Tibetan Buddhists believe that saying the mantra, Om Mani Padme Hum, out loud or silently to oneself, invokes the powerful benevolent attention and blessings of Chenrezig, the embodiment of compassion. Viewing the written form of the mantra is said to have the same effect hence why it is carved into the stones.

Spinning the written form of the mantra around in a Mani wheel (or prayer wheel) is also believed to give the same benefit as saying the mantra, and Mani wheels, small hand wheels and large wheels with millions of copies of the mantra inside, are found not only in Nepal but everywhere in lands influenced by Tibetan Buddhism.

Wall of mani stones

Prayer wheels

Mani Stone

Everest Memorial Sculpture - Pheriche

The Everest Memorial Sculpture in Pheriche (4371m) was designed by British sculptor Oliver Barratt (who has worked at Sevenoaks School!) in 2002 to commemorate those who have lost their lives in the ascent of Everest. The sculpture is a conical steel frame shape split down the centre. The names of the dead are engraved on the flat inner surfaces of the split cone. The sculpture was designed in 170 separate pieces that could be transported up the slope by sherpas using wicker panniers. Other materials — such as the stone used in the sculpture's base — were sourced locally. http://www.directionalfabrics.com/everest/Everest.pdf