Everest2 - Closing Thoughts & Thank You!

Heading up North Col in an acclimatisation climb (circ. 6800m)

Apologies for the late final entry - it has been a hectic few weeks but I have now finally had the opportunity to relax and put 'pen to paper' so to speak..!

Whilst I didn’t achieve my ultimate, most 'obvious' goal (other than returning in one piece!) I did push myself to the limit of my abilities and made a decision which, upon some critical reflection, was the right one even though it's not been been an easy one to articulate back at sea level... It's been a very character-building experience to reflect on a decision which, at altitude, was crystal clear - I wasn't 'comfortable' and 'something' (as vague as that may seem!) was telling me to turn around and 'call it a day'. 

The biggest and most important challenge is now determining 'what I have learned' from this... so that WHEN I go back (and yes, I am definitely going back!) I will have another positive and safe experience and make an even stronger bid for the summit of the worlds highest peak.... and continue to enjoy other alpine challenges around the world.

Risk vs Reward...
The allusive 8848m peak remains a tremendous challenge and one which certainly should not be taken lightly - this is something that I've always appreciated and is one of the reasons why I love the physical and mental challenges inherent to high-altitude mountaineering.

Base Camp 2011 - Happiest when on a mountain...

There are risks and the stakes are high - you know that going into a climb. The key is knowing how to manage and minimise these risks so that you return in one piece to tell the tale - whether that includes a much coveted summit photo or all digits in tact. The key is to recognise and understand the risks and assess whether the potential outcomes are worth the potential sacrifice. To me, the personal satisfaction and experience of reaching the summit is not an outcome worth risking my life for.
Managing risk means knowing your hardwear, having the appropriate processes and systems in place before and during the expedition, working as a team, appreciating the power of nature's forces, and, perhaps most importantly, being fully aware of your own personal abilities and fully understanding the degree of risk that you are willing to take.


Mountains are unpredictable. Despite the fact that the infrastructure, overall technology, communications and 'risk awareness' have improved significantly over the past few years, people still die on Everest and people will continue to take risks -- the statistics are a testament to that fact.  The debilitating effects of altitude, exhaustion, combined with extreme weather conditions, lack of food and water, problems with equipment, physical health and mental strength and stamina, and good old-fashioned “luck” are all factors which will continue serve to deter or contribute to ultimate success on the mountain.

What I've learned...
I've thought a lot about this question over the past few weeks.

On my 'Everest Journey' I found new sources of inspiration. I found new friends. I found old friends again. I found that I can take time for myself and time for my family / friends and time for work. I found that I've come to better understand and know my limits and manage risks.  I found that just by trying that I can have an impact on other people. I found that life with goals is fulfilling and inspiring.

Like the 8848m summit, I have learned that sometimes even the most tremendous challenges are possible and achievable when broken down into smaller, individual goals.

I have learned to be flexible – where one door closes, another opens.

I have learned to have patience – to take people for who they are. 

And I have learned to remember to LAUGH. Life is incredibly short and it’s so easy to become far too serious and get caught up in the ‘daily grind’. While I am certain these past 2.5 months has accelerated the grey-hair and wrinkles process, I feel content (and proud) knowing that many of these are laugh-lines, attained in the shadow of Mount Everest..!

This quote from Theodore Roosevelt best sums it up....:

"It is not the critic who counts: not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles or where the doer of deeds could have done better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood, who strives valiantly, who errs and comes up short again and again, because there is no effort without error or shortcoming, but who knows the great enthusiasms, the great devotions, who spends himself for a worthy cause; who, at the best, knows, in the end, the triumph of high achievement, and who, at the worst, if he fails, at least he fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who knew neither victory nor defeat.

Whilst taking 2.5 months out of my life to live in a tent in freezing cold temperatures and eating my body-weight in SPAM is a bit of an extreme way to realise these lessons, they are lessons which I hope will keep with me and continue to learn from for the rest of my life.

Summit or no summit, the mountain will always be there as will memories to last a lifetime.

THANK YOU
On that note, I'd like to thank my family and friends for their continued support - in particular my sister Melanie and good friend and Everest summiteer Pete Sunnucks (I will get there!!) for keeping my blog up to date so tediously!

To Sevenoaks School, Ridgetown District High School, and Future Hope School -- a huge Thank You for your many messages, emails and for your continued support and for joining me on this journey. Thanks so much for being such great company along the way.

Thank you to my employer, PricewaterhouseCoopers (PwC Consulting) and my colleagues for your support - you have been absolutely fantastic for putting up with me and I promise to wait a few more days before asking for more time off... ;-)

Thank you and a huge congratulations to our team and my guides Zac Poulton and Chris Szymiec - you guys are amazing and I feel as though I've inherited a few more brothers to add to the collection from last year...! In particular I'd like to extend my special congratulations to my teammates from last year who joined me this year -- all of whom were successful! Andrew Robertson (Climbing Partner in Crime!); Geordie 'Seven Summits' Stewart; Stephen 'The Celebrity Artist' Green; and Mark 'The Dark Horse' who always had some entertaining stories to keep us on our toes...


Thank you to the Hood - those freezing evenings on the Thames in the Sisterhood Dragon Boat followed by Monday Pub were exactly what I needed. Thank you so much for keeping me motivated!

Finally, last but not least, thank you also to my sponsors Chucs Dive & Mountain Shop; The Altitude Centre; Maximuscle; Planet Dacha  and BodyWorksWest - your support has made this journey possible and I'm most grateful for your advice, camaraderie and involvement. 

Fashionista at 7400m.

CBC.ca | The Bridge | Heather Geluk's second attempt at climbing Mount Everest is over.

CBC.ca | The Bridge | Heather Geluk's second attempt at climbing Mount Everest is over.

Everest2: Thank you from Ridgetown District High School

Just a quick email to say we here at RDHS are very happy you are safe and sound and I am looking forward to a detailed account of your adventure. 

Safe and Well

Dear Friends and Supporters,

Heather is now safe and well back at Advanced Base Camp after what can only be described as making a very very difficult decision of turning around and abandoning her attempt somewhere by Camp 2. I'm yet to find out more information, but the reports from the Adventure Peaks website is that she is now helping with radio communications at ABC for the teams summit attempt tonight.

The Final Push!

All,

I'm pleased to confirm Heathers final big push is well under way! She's departed Advanced Base Camp today to start the long arduous climb to reach the top of the world... If all goes to plan she will summit on the 26th of May.

Base Camp - Acclimatisation Profiles - Special Thanks to the Altitude Centre!

The team has been enjoying the comforts of the Hilton that is our 5200m Base Camp for about 10 days now ‘recovering’ (eating everything in sight and sleeping 10 hours/day) from our last move to 7500m (above the North Col). Everyone is in good spirits - ready and waiting for the allusive weather window. Besides the usual ‘hot topics’ at lunch and dinner - weather windows, rope-fixing dates, and what exciting condiment will eaten at dinner today- a recent new ‘element of complexity’ has resurfaced entering an old, all-too-familiar bit of vocabulary back into our conversations - acclimatisation.

Base Camp - CHUCS and Mount Everest

Two of my most prized pieces of ‘mountain attire’ at Base Camp (where striking the delicate balance between mountain fashion and function is clearly a priority!) are my 
(1) ultra light down jacket and 
(2) Chucs sun cap. 
Having said that, fashion is relative… If I walked into the Base Camp mess tent in an Alexander McQueen gown and my high altitude boots I’m fairly sure that the boys would ask why I was wearing high altitude boots at Base Camp…. 

Base Camp - Weather Window Update & Special Thanks

The massive white plume of spindrift blowing from the summit provides every indication that the allusive weather window is still a way off. The wind is ripping into the North East Ridge of Everest as I type. We are still the only team left at Base Camp as the other teams moved up to Advanced Base Camp over a week ago to chase a rumoured weather window. We heard the news today that the Chinese Tibetan Mountaineering Authority (CTMA) rope fixers would leave to start fixing the ropes between 8300m and 8848m on the 18^th of May. 

Things We Won’t Miss about climbing Everest (initial list)

1. Getting dressed on your knees in a tent.....

Base camp - The Waiting Game

Waiting for the weather window feels a lot like Groundhog Day. The weather is generally the same every day (blue sky, sunny), we eat meals daily and regularly at 8:30, 12:30 and 6:30 every day, and conversations generally revolve around the summit window, or summit day generally or the ever popular weather forecast. Somehow these conversations always degenerate into one or another toilet joke or a ‘silent but deadly‘ fart by a member of the team where the next 20-minutes are spent arguing over ‘who-dunnit’.

Base Camp - Salted Plums and the Condiment Challenge

Spare yourself no illusions that we are heroically trudging knee-deep through a steep snowy slope in the Death Zone of Everest, clinging onto our jumars with clenched teeth, breathing each breath as if it were our last… Oh no. Rather, the greater proportion of us are laying in our tents, completely bored out of our rapidly shrinking hypoxic brains for the 5^th day in a row.

The days have started to run together and the ‘time warp’ that we are currently stuck in has begun to affect our mental capacities. Last night we hit a worrying climax at dinner when the ‘Condiments Challenge’ took an interesting twist.

Base Camp - Birthday Celebrations!

I’m fairly sure that I won’t be starting too many birthday celebrations bathing in a ¼ full potato pan in the vestibule of my Hilton of Base Camp tent…but regardless, a wonderful way to start my 35^th birthday. The first proper wash in quite sometime, with an end result that would definitely be a contender for a ‘Head and Shoulders’ commercial (not Herbal Essences as I‘m sure that would alarm the boys!!). My usual clothes smelling ritual (eg. Going through my kit bag to see what smells the least) was also avoided as I decided to treat myself with a clean(ish)wardrobe and a fresh coat of lip gloss before heading to breakfast.

Everest Base Camp - Partying Russian Style

Last night we went to a party. Not just any party. An Everest Base Camp Party. Russian style.

Drama at the North Col

“North Col calling ABC over; North Col calling ABC…” the radio in the mess tent about 10 feet away from my tent at ABC crackled to life. I checked my watch - 6:45am. Crap. An unscheduled call that early in the morning meant problems. Looking up at he dark shadows on the roof of my tent I suspected that the evenings heavy snowfall and accompanying winds had something to do with it..!

North Col - What the brochure doesn’t tell you

I woke up with the condensation from the inside of the tent dripping on my head. Confused, I checked my watch - 6:00am - and tried to get my bearings. I was inside a tent. In spite of what felt like Chinese water torture, I was warm and relatively comfortable even though my thermarest had slid from under me during the night and now formed what looked like a bright yellow version of the Great Wall of China between my still comatose tent mate Chris and myself. 

North Col Acclimatisation Ascent

I smiled confidently at the dull thud of my crampon kicking into the well-packed snow and grunted in a rather un-ladylike way as I slid the jumar up yet another foot on the icy face of the North Col. The ultimate goal of today’s mission was to reach the top of the 500m ice face and spend 2 nights sleeping at the North Col. From there we were to make our way up to the 7500m ‘marker’ and then turn back to complete our final altitude push and preparation for the tremendous challenges ahead.

The rest of the group had already gone up the previous day but under the leadership of Chris, our guide, Nick, Jason, Stephen, Salam an I had decided to hang back at ABC an extra day to give those suffering from various tummy bug’s and coughs some additional time to recover. Unfortunately not all of the coughs and tummy bugs subsided, so on that morning, Chris, Nick and myself made up an intrepid group of three, braving the elements and, with each heavy, plodding step, further committed ourselves to the adventure ahead.

The journey up the steep, icy face of the North Col, begins with a 1 hour ‘walk’ over some rocky moraine from ABC to ‘Crampon Corner’- a ‘meeting point’ where climbers collect and deposit their crampons, harnesses and gear in big blue barrels strategically positioned at the outer perimeter of the Rombok glacier. Inevitably your crampons and harness - or anything that you urgently need - will ALWAYS be at the bottom of the barrel and will ultimately add an additional 20 minutes of ‘prolonging the inevitable‘ (otherwise known as faffing) - something that I have managed to get quite good at.

One can easily get to Crampon Corner wearing hiking boots but crampons are necessary in order to make the crossing from Crampon Corner over the cravasse packed Rombok Glacier to the headwall of the North Col. Navigating the icy glacier takes about 25 minutes, leaving you to stare up at the giant wall of ice, the obstacle for the next 4 hours, with a sense of both awe and dread. Normally, the entire ‘journey’ up to the headwall of the North Col is fairly uneventful, the biggest challenge involving jumping a few gaping blue crevasses and figuring out how to use the ‘self timer’ on a camera to get in a few token photos...

On this particular day however an additional level of complexity was provided by the blistering heat from the sun and radiation from the snow. It was absolutely sweltering and a bikini would not have gone amiss (apart from the obvious cultural ramifications!!). As I walked from Crampon Corner to the headwall I felt as if I was a ‘boil in the bag’ meal in my uber -girly pink gore-tex jacket and it felt as if the energy was being sucked out of my body by the heat with every step. Had we been planning a day at the beach or a day of tanning the conditions would have been perfect… (given my sunburn track record this option was quickly scrapped!!!). As I had already learned the hard way, the sun provided additional threats and challenges - sunburn, heatstroke, dehydration, radiation off of the ice and snow, snow-blindness and it also served to add an additional element of physical exhaustion to what was already a challenging climb.

With a ‘chilled out’ Canadian outlook, Chris and I ambled our way at a leisurely, relaxed pace up the North Col. It was a fantastic and thoroughly enjoyable ascent (I NEVER thought I’d say that!!) because (1) the ropes were incredibly quiet (we could have been anywhere!); (2) in spite of the heat the weather was fantastic; (3) because the snow was packed down it was easier to find purchase and move along the ropes and finally; (4) it was nice to take things slow and steady enjoying a long lunch (and a Baby Bell cheese!) whilst clipped to an anchor to break up the day. The gaping blue cravasses didn’t even phase me!

I was feeling strong well into the initial 3.5 hours of the journey - step, step, breathe, slide jumar up; step, step breathe, slide jumar up….. Every few metres I’d look around, smile and sigh happily and take in my surroundings - a brilliant blue sky, my fantastic team mates below, the giant wall of ice and snow with Everest looming ominously to my left. It was an awe-inspiring yet daunting sight.

That feeling of strength eventually began to dwindle. Heading into the final section of the climb I began to count down the steps and breaths to the comfort of my tent. Unfortunately we (I) had one major obstacle to contend with… a double aluminum ladder angled at 45 degrees and straddling a giant blue crevasse that would easily transport one on a rapid journey to the centre of the earth. Chris assured me that it would take me directly to Canada which was fortunate since I was craving a donut and a Tim Hortons coffee. I managed to ‘clip into’ the rickety ladder and make it across without any dramas. I did my best to ignore the fact that the only thing that was stopping me from a complimentary journey to the centre of the earth was a 3mm ice ledge, some 6mm cord and some high altitude, hypoxia induced Chinese engineering…. After crossing the ladder I nearly turned to ‘High 5’ Chris but then realised that it was neither the time nor the place…. Plus, I needed to maintain an image of mountaineering prowess in spite of the sweat, white knuckles and carabiners clipped into anything and everything in sight.

I won’t go into detail about the final 5 minutes of the ascent to 7000m except to say that when I finally saw the North Col camp I was soooo relieved. An oasis of orange in a sea of white. I was so tired that it seemed to take every ounce of will-power to put one foot in front of the other and I managed to muster about two steps at a time. Of course, in true form, as soon as I saw Zac and the rest of the team sitting relaxed and bronzed around their tents I was all smiles and all sense of exhaustion was quickly forgotten.

That night, reflecting on the experiences I’ve now had on the North Col I composed the following letter while Chris attempted to prove ‘best-tent-mate-in-the-world-status’ boiled the water for our boil-in-a-bag extravaganza…..

Dear Everest NE Ridge Tourism Authority,

Pursuant to last years correspondence, please accept this letter as my proposal for some significant developments for the commercialisation of the NE Ridge of Everest. I hereby whole-heartedly support the building of a high-speed escalator from Base Camp to ABC. I hereby also support the installation of a tow-rope from ABC to the headwall of the North Col (with snack bar selling sausages and waffles at Crampon Corner as well as crampon fitting service and massage bar). Please also consider this recommendation to build a heated gondola from the headwall up to the top of the North Col where an Everest themed bar with some lively, up-beat music would not go amiss. A zip-line can be installed for those with a stronger constitution. I would be happy to recommend some experienced Canadian commercial operators (look to the resorts in Western Canada as evidence of our engineering prowess) who would be delighted to help you with this project. Please do not hesitate to contact me with any questions or concerns. Thank you in advance for your consideration.

Kind regards,

Heather

Picture: North Col Camp

ABC

I’m about 120% positive that my least favorite part of the trip up to ABC is the section of the Moraine Superhighway after Interim camp. Interim Camp is situated at the top of a steep section of moraine which then falls away into a serac-filled jungle and a fast flowing stream and then a steep uphill climb onto a long, undulating lateral moraine which lies adjacent to Everest. These are the first three obstacles that one faces first thing in the morning after leaving camp (all that without the benefit of a Starbucks latte!!).

I’m generally a positive person, but I can’t bear the walk between IC and ABC – it drags on and on and on and on and on and on and on…. By about 11am I was so bored bumbling along the scree that I begin to video-tape my feet walking ’fast’ and then ’walking slow’ (note: there is no difference!!)… and the a few hours later decided to start writing messages in the snow with my trekking pole for Chris, Stephen and Salam (who were coming up from BC). These included – “Canada Rocks” as well as “Go Team Scotland!” and “Yaaa Bangladesh!”. I nearly killed myself falling into a snow-covered crevasse writing, “Almost There!” accompanied by a giant smiley face….

Geordie provided some entertainment at noon during the regular radio call. It’s difficult to learn to resist the temptation when utterly bored and starved of conversation to engage in an irrelevant full-fledged conversation on a radio that is to be use for check-ins only!

I was incredibly relieved when at 2:30pm one of the Sherpas from ABC came down to meet me with a drink of hot tea and some moral support. Then the final painfully frustrating hour passed when you constantly think you’re close to camp or you think, “it’s just over the next moraine” only to be disappointed time and time again by a frustratingly endless series of hills and fruitless climbs. I was incredibly relieved to see ABC and dive into the comfort of the warm and entertaining mess tent where I could unleash my frustrations about the giant toilet that is Interim Camp and attempt to rehydrate. 5 minutes later after a bowl of noodle soup, all was forgotten and I could smile and laugh once again. It was now time to prepare for the new challenges ahead! North Col ascent in 2 days!

Interim Camp – Yak Rodeo

I threw down my ‘North Face Blue Kazoo” sleeping bag and gagged. The absolutely overwhelming smell of yak dung and the fresh steam yak ‘welcome gift’ in my vestibule made me seriously question whether splitting the 21km walk up to ABC from BC on the Moraine Superhighway had been a wise move. To be honest, I’m used to at least a mint on my pillow….! Don’t get me wrong – I think yaks are great – big, beautiful, docile creatures without which the journey up to Advanced Base Camp would be significantly more difficult. I just haven’t particularly ‘warmed’ to their potpourri…

Back up to the North Col - The Graft Begins

It’s been a busy two days at Everest Base Camp and laying here in my tent eating chocolate covered raisins stolen from the luxury barrel (sorry boys!!) I contemplate the challenges ahead. Tomorrow we head back up the 21km Moraine Superhighway to ABC and will then spend 3 nights on the North Col. During one of the days we will make the grueling climb up to 7500m as part of the acclimatisation process.

For many reasons I’m trying to refrain from comparing ‘this year’ to ‘last year’ but I want to highlight the absolutely fantastic work done by our guides, Zac Poulton and Chris Szymiec. With their ‘Nothing New on Summit Day’ approach I feel prepared for the many challenges ahead. Everest is a tough and unpredictable mountain and both Zac and Chris have done what they can to enable us to control what we can and make informed decisions about the things that we can‘t.

Yesterday we had an intensive 2 hours of ‘oxygen and mask’ training where we were ‘refreshed’ on the basic principles of using oxygen systems at altitude. We were then tested on the application of this refresher by fitting cylinders to masks and discussing common and avoidable problems with the systems. Basic stuff but absolutely critical and can ultimately make or break a summit attempt -- and even go so far as to save your life. Last night we were then all hauled out of the warmth of our tents and into the cold wearing our masks and head torches to walk up the ‘Frozen River’ just outside of Camp to simulate the feeling of claustrophobia experienced during Summit Night in the walk up from 8300m.

It will be good to set out again for ABC tomorrow and complete the final stage of the acclimatisation process. When I think of all of the challenges and unknowns in the week ahead I can’t help but feel overwhelmed but know that no matter what happens it will be an adventure and an integral part of the experience of a lifetime.

Base Camp Hilton

Exhausted, weak, dehydrated (and still sunburnt!!) I stumbled down the final section of the Moraine Superhighway. A hazy yellow-gold mirage appeared before me amidst the dull grey scree and moraine. I rubbed my eyes with my snot covered Patagonia mittens. Base Camp. Could it be? Was it a mirage? The spring in my step caused me to stumble face first into the scree, narrowly avoiding a pile of rancid yak dung. It had been a long 21km walk down from ABC and my body was still recovering from yesterday’s ascent /descent of the North Col.

Hobbling with the aid of my trekking pole, I stumbled to my golden haven. My tent. My palace. My home. With my knees placed securely on my ‘Welcome Mat’, I unzipped the fly to the two-man tent (for one) and was immediately greeted by a warm, clean glow of loveliness. Thanks to the Dollarama-Shopping Extravaganza in Zheng Mu several weeks ago, my tent was a breath of fresh air. Martha Stewart eat your heart out…

To the far right of my tent is a small single mattress with my sleeping bag, the comforter and duvet cover purchased in Zheng Mu (bargain and serious style points!!!). The duvet cover is (still) white, lime green, aquamarine blue and turquoise striped. A huge rice filled lime-green ‘accent pillow’ (a mans worst nightmare) rests stylishly on the head of the ‘bed’. Next to the bed is the stool also purchased in Zheng Mu. Covered by a lilac handkerchief, it serves as my bedside table upon which rests a collection of books, cough candies, vitamin C tablets and my iPod.

Directly behind my bed is the conservatory, accessed via a zippered ‘bay window’, which offers one of the most incredible views in the world (no, neither Jason nor Ben’s tents!!) Looking out of the ‘window’ you can’t help but not sit mesmerised by Everest, standing solitary and grand with its snow white cap and plume of spindrift against the clear blue sky. It’s no wonder that the mountain is still considered sacred.

On the floor of my tent, a slick silver strip down the centre, is a roll-mat purchased in Kathmandu. I’m pretty sure you’re supposed to have the dull blue boring side up rather than the flashy metallic silver side but I figured that the tent color scheme could handle it.

To the far right of my tent (about 2 feet from my bed) is my giant red closet… better known as my ‘kit bag’, filled with all the fashion essentials needed for the Base Camp cat walk. Plus batteries, a box of Kraft Dinner, my Maximuscle energy gels, and protein bars. At first glance one would think that the kit bag / closet would clash disastrously with the lime-green accents found throughout the tent however the color scheme works remarkably well and the red adds some ‘pizazz’ to the entire ‘tent’ suite.

The ‘piece de resistance’ in the tent is the light-and-airy feel achieved through the creation on the ceiling. I’ve taken 4 prayer scarves received from various llamas and guest house owners along the journey and have hung them from the centre of the tent out to its corners, like the inside of a circus marquee. Delicate, cream-colored giant white sashes contrasting against the golden ceiling of the tent and also doubling as a useful ‘hammock’ to cameras, sunglasses and head torches, easily accessed while laying in bed.

To ensure that the oasis stays smelling fresh and clean I regularly roll my ‘Issy Miake’ industrial sized deodorant stick along the canvas walls so that the tent is filled with the fresh and clean smell of spring (rather than stinky trekking boots and clothes that haven’t been washed in over a month) as soon as the sun hits the tent in the morning. It’s nearly as good as waking up to the smell of fresh coffee…. Or fresh bread…. (but not quite).

I can’t complain about the neighbours either. Dubbed the ‘Chelsea of Base Camp’ my tent real estate will only sky rocket in value with considerate neighbours such as Jason and Ben who have since come to me for interior-design advice and to exchange recipes… (ok, perhaps that is a slight exaggeration). Either way, my golden oasis of warmth in the heart of Everest Base Camp is definitely my home away from home and I can’t imagine anywhere I’d rather be.

It almost sounds civilised. If only we could do something about this mountain climbing malarkey….